One week exploring Puerto Rico’s history, nature, and food — moody teen-approved.
As The Baby’s graduation nears and our exodus from the frozen north approaches, winters become more and more intolerable. So once again, we headed towards salt, sun, and sea breezes for February break. This year, we spent a week in lovely Puerto Rico.
Consistent warm temperatures, averaging 85 °F in lower elevations and 70 °F in the mountains, and high humidity are characteristic of Puerto Rico’s tropical climate. Persistent trade winds move from east to west across the island year-round. The dry season runs from December to April, and the wet season runs from May to November. The island experiences heavy rainfall during the hurricane season, from June to November. Back-to-back major hurricanes impacted the island in 2017. The effects were widespread and catastrophic. The island continues to work to rebuild.
Puerto Rico's primary language is Spanish. English is spoken to a lesser degree than on many other Caribbean islands. We found that the further we ventured from San Juan, the more often we encountered communication challenges.
When we intend to stay in one location, we prefer to stay in home rental properties. Having space for everyone and many of the comforts of home makes for a much more relaxing experience. We booked a property in Rio Grande, about a half-hour southeast of San Juan. Our rental in Ocean Villas, located right next to the Grand Wyndham Rio Mar Resort, was steps away from multiple pools, a hot tub, and the beach. The location was central to the activities we had planned for the week.
When traveling with our kids, I try to schedule our activities so they can sleep while The Hubs and I enjoy a relaxing morning. On our first full day, I scheduled an afternoon three-and-a-half hour mini-boat adventure. We were excited to cruise along the coastline in our mini speedboat with stops to snorkel a reef ecosystem and enjoy time on the white sands of Icacos. On our way to the Marina Puerto Chico, about a half hour from our Airbnb, we stopped for a quick lunch at a local cafe, Panaderia Monte Brisas. The Baby enjoyed her donuts, The Hubs his breakfast sandwich, and I a Cuban.
Unfortunately, while the skies were clear, the seas were too rough, so the guides canceled the tour. We were disappointed, but we enjoyed the afternoon back at the pool.
I made a reservation for dinner at La Estacion near the marina for after our boat tour. La Estacion is a "must-visit" spot on the island, known for its unique fusion of Puerto Rican flavors and barbecue. Many sources highlight it as one of the top restaurants on the island. While not as convenient since our plans changed, we kept our reservation. And the food did not disappoint. We started with cocktails: a guanabana (the fruit from a Caribbean evergreen tree) mojito for The Hubs, a Fajardo Sunrise for me, along with ceviche with tostones. The Hubs and I shared a grilled whole red snapper — chef’s kiss. The Baby ordered a brisket empanada, which was also very good. I recommend making a reservation here and going for lunch or an early dinner, as they were out of several items on the menu when we arrived at 6:30.
We headed the half hour into El Yunque National Forest for our day three adventure. At the time of our visit, neither reservations nor tickets were required, but you’ll want to check before your visit. We decided on an earlier start because I read that parking becomes increasingly difficult as the day progresses. Operating hours are 8-5; we arrived at the Mount Britton Tower trailhead at 9:30, and parking was already limited. The trail is a one-mile out-and-back. While not long, it is considered challenging due to the elevation gain and potentially slippery conditions. The narrow, primarily single-lane trail was lovely, meandering through the cloud forest and passing a small stream and waterfall. Ending at the Britton Tower is a panoramic view of the surrounding forest, the Atlantic Ocean, and the Caribbean Sea. The tower was constructed in the mid-1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps as part of a relief program during the Great Depression designed to provide employment. The tower was built on Mt. Britton Peak as an observation point, allowing visitors to rise above the forest canopy. It was much more crowded on our way down, and we had to step off the trail numerous times to let those ascending it pass. It took us about an hour.
After our hike, we stopped quickly at Yokahú Tower. The tower is a short walk from the parking lot. Parking here is minimal, with a small, 30-minute limit lot and no available street parking. It’s worth a stop if you can find parking. From the top of the tower, there is a nice view of the surrounding forest and the Virgin Islands on a clear day. Unfortunately for us, we didn’t have the visibility. By the time we headed out, it was very crowded, and cars were parked everywhere!
On to Las Pailas natural waterslide. The river is open to the public, but a local homeowner provides parking (for $10) and path access (for $1 per person). The waterslides are pretty popular with both locals and tourists. There are tour operators that bring large groups. It can get crowded. Thankfully, a tour group was leaving when we arrived. Unfortunately, I slipped and banged up my tailbone shortly after we arrived. We were all wearing trekking water shoes, and those were fine, except when I stepped right onto a mossy rock. The Hubs and The Baby enjoyed a couple of runs down the larger of the two slides. There was a smaller slide into a large swimming hole, but I was miserable, so we didn’t check that out.
After my traumatic day and my lack of any desire to cook dinner, The Hubs found an excellent spot for dinner. Dos Panza was a great Mexican place that was not far from our Airbnb. The Hubs knows that queso and a margarita are the best medicine. We started with a strawberry-kiwi margarita for The Hubs, a tamarind margarita for me, and queso fundido and guacamole. For dinner, The Hubs and The Baby each got a chimichanga, and I got flautas. It was a great meal and just what I needed.
The following day, we ventured to the Pork Highway! The hour-plus trip, winding its way up the slopes of the central mountain range, has an abundance of lechoneras, rustic, open-air roadside eateries specializing in lechón, or spit-roasted whole pig. There are many to choose from, so I relied on “the higher you go, the better the pork.” We pulled up at the end of the Pork Highway to El Rancho Original. This massive place with abundant seating reflected the heavy weekend traffic. I would arrive early if you visit on a weekend. When we arrived around 11 on a Tuesday morning, we were the only ones there (it was so quiet that we thought it wasn’t open). With fears of a Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi experience, I was a touch overwhelmed. But there were English menu boards (no prices), and ordering at the cafeteria-style counters was easy enough, even though nobody there spoke English. The Hubs and I ordered pork with mac salad, chicken with rice with pigeon peas, and stewed ranch beans. It was all so delicious. The crispy skin on that pork…I’ll dream about that! The Baby, in full moody teen mode, wanted nothing to do with the Pork Highway.
Continuing past the El Rancho Original, we continued into the Carite Forest. The devastation from the hurricane became more and more evident during our attempts to explore the mountains and forests of central Puerto Rico. We walked into the Charco Azul Recreation Area, which once had what appeared to be a nice pavilion and restroom facilities. We followed the path but didn’t reach the multiple swimming holes and waterfalls I read about. We then attempted to find Survivor Falls. The description of numerous large swimming holes, a rope swing, and a waterfall was so enticing. We got to the general area — there is a Google pin — but we didn’t want to risk walking through private property. We then intended to visit Siete Chorros, a waterfall and swimming hole located behind a bar called “Colmado Bar González” but The Baby had had quite enough adventure for the day!
The following day, we took the forty-five-minute drive into Old San Juan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We parked in a lot, Multipiso Doña Fela, directly across from where we intended to end our day with dinner at Raíces. Once we got our bearings, we went to Café Cuatro Sombras for a late breakfast. The place was small and crowded, but the coffee, egg sandwich, and yogurt bowl provided a satisfying start to our day. We then headed to Castillo San Cristóbal and Castillo San Felipe del Morro to learn about the island's history, beginning with colonialization in the early 1500s. The Spanish built the forts and walled the city and were able to defend Puerto Rico from invasions by the British, Dutch, and pirates. A $10 per person ticket covers entrance into both forts and credit card payments only.
We walked through the María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery on our way between the two forts. What a beautiful resting place.
After finishing at Castillo San Felipe del Morro, head towards the Paseo del Morro and walk along the coast towards the San Juan Gate, the main entrance into the walled city used to unload colonists and supplies off of the Spanish ships anchored in the cove during the colonial era. Continue to the Roots Fountain, where the Paseo del Morro ends. The water along the path in the cove is calm and clear turquoise. We saw some locals swimming. A dip would have been a welcome relief from walking around in the hot sun.
We then walked along Paseo La Princesa and back into the walled city to Señor Paleta for popsicles. They have a wide variety of unique flavors. The Baby got lemonade, The Hubs got guanabana, and I got a strawberry mojito. Turning right out of the shop takes you to Pigeon Park, where you can enjoy your paletas with an audience and a view.
After our quickly melting snack, we walked the streets and shopped. There was no shortage of stores, from cheap souvenir shops to high-end boutiques. We found our way back to Raíces for an early, light dinner. We very much enjoyed sharing the delicious seafood mofongo and mojitos.
We made another attempt to spend time at sea the following day. We drove thirty minutes to the Puerto Del Ray Marina for a three-hour afternoon catamaran along the coast. After about a forty-five-minute sail, we dropped anchor to swim, snorkel, and relax in the Caribbean Sea in the company of a large sea turtle. While anchored, light appetizers and alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks were served. The return trip was just as lovely as the sun began to set. The two-person crew was friendly and attentive, and with only six passengers onboard, the experience was relaxed and uncrowded. We remained disappointed in the cancellation of our mini-boat adventure, but this afternoon at sea was just perfect.
That evening, we opted to stay at the marina and eat dinner at La Cueva del Mar. We weren’t particularly hungry, but we ordered a tremendous amount of food — and finished all of it! We started with mojitos, ahi nachos, and calamari. All delicious. The Baby ordered a flavorful seafood rice dish for dinner, and The Hubs and I shared a spectacular and ginormous lobster tempura. We were sun-kissed and stuffed!
Our final day in Puerto Rico was spent walking the beach and relaxing by the pool. Dinner included drinks (more mojitos, obviously) and sushi at W Sushi Bar. We ended our day with ice cream at Pal Patio de Lola. I wish we had checked out this open-air food court earlier; lunch or dinner would have been fun.
While Puerto Rico is a US territory and does not require passports, customs, or immigration for US citizens, you must get a USDA agricultural inspection of your luggage through an X-ray screening on your return trip. Be sure to allow a little extra time for this, as there is only one machine, and the line can be long, although it does move quickly.
Heading home is always bittersweet. I never want to leave relaxing in the sunshine, but I miss my 2-legged and 4-legged family.
We enjoyed soaking up the sun and eating all the seafood, which was just what we needed to get through the remaining months of upstate New York's winter and spring chill.
I hope this motivates you to travel, eat…and return and share my journey through 7 continents and infinite foods.
8 Days/7 Nights
Day 2:
Panaderia Monte Brisas
La Estacion (takes reservations 2 weeks)
Day 3:
Las Pailas natural waterslide
Day 4:
Pork Highway - El Rancho Original
Charco Azul Recreation Area
Survivor falls
Rio Siete Chorros
Day 5:
Old San Juan
María Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery
Paseo del Morro to San Juan Gate to Roots Fountain
Señor Paleta
Pigeon Park
Day 6:
Day 7:
**I would highly recommend that you make reservations in advance when available. I always book scheduled activities and typically make dinner reservations in advance. I’ve indicated with a parenthetical any restaurants that take reservations.